KeyTester

How to Remove and Replace Keycaps: A Step-by-Step Guide

Reviewed by the KeyTester Editorial Team

You just got a new keycap set, you spilled something on a few keys, or you want to clean under the caps before your return window closes. Either way, the first thing you need to do is get the keycaps off without snapping anything.

It's easier than it looks — but there are a few mistakes that break stems or scratch the keyboard. This guide covers the right way to do it, with and without a dedicated puller.

Before You Start

Take a photo of your full keyboard layout. You'll thank yourself later when you're reinstalling and can't remember where the right Alt and right Ctrl went.

What You Need

The right tool makes a big difference here. A wire keycap puller — a small loop of stainless wire on a handle — costs under $5 and eliminates most of the risks. Plastic claw pullers work too but can scratch the keycap surface on high-gloss sets.

Recommended

  • Wire keycap puller
  • Can of compressed air
  • Microfiber cloth
  • Small container for keycaps

If No Puller Available

  • Two bent paperclips
  • Flathead screwdriver (cushioned)
  • Dental floss (for thin stems)

How to Remove Keycaps: Step by Step

Step 1: Identify Your Switch Type

Most mechanical keyboards use switches with a plus-shaped (+) stem — Cherry MX, Gateron, Kailh, and most clones. These accept standard keycaps and the keycap puller technique described here.

Topre boards use a round stem under the keycap. If you have a Topre keyboard (HHKB, RealForce), the keycaps seat over a conical rubber dome, not a switch stem. Pull technique is the same, but the keycap seats more loosely and requires less force.

Laptop scissor-switch keys are different entirely — do not use a keycap puller on them. They clip onto a fragile scissor mechanism that breaks easily. If you have a laptop, skip to the dedicated section below.

Step 2: Position the Wire Puller

Hold the wire puller with the loop facing down. Slide the wire ring under the edge of the keycap at one side, then push it further under until the loop sits around two opposite corners of the switch stem.

You want the wire to be under the keycap but around the stem, not resting on the keycap surface. If you only hook one corner, you'll lever the keycap off at an angle — that's how stems snap.

Step 3: Pull Straight Up, Slow and Steady

Apply even upward force along the stem axis — straight up, not angled. The key is slow and steady. Most keycaps release with a satisfying pop at roughly 1–2 lbs of force.

Warning

Do NOT jerk or yank. The switch stem has small retention clips that release under steady upward pressure. A sudden jerk can snap the stem cross at the base — that ruins the switch and requires desoldering to replace (or living with a broken key).

Step 4: Larger Keys (Spacebar, Shift, Enter)

Larger keys have stabilizers — metal wires or plastic clips that prevent the key from wobbling. The spacebar has two stabilizer posts plus the central switch stem.

Pull from the center (switch) first to pop the stem. Then work the stabilizer posts out of their housing by gently rocking the keycap. Don't force it — if it resists, the center switch may not have fully released. Pull from center again.

For the Enter key (ISO or ANSI) and Left Shift, the same principle applies: release center first, then slide the stabilizer wire free from its housing.

Step 5: Clean the Switch and Check the Stem

While the keycap is off, this is your window to clean. Hit the switch housing with compressed air to clear dust, hair, and crumbs. If the switch feels sticky or gritty, check out our sticky keys fix guide for what to do next.

Inspect the switch stem (the cross-shaped post). It should be smooth with no cracks. A cracked stem means the switch needs replacing — the key will feel spongy or missfire.

Removing Keycaps Without a Puller

You can improvise if needed. The goal is the same: apply even upward force around the stem without levering at a single point.

Bent paperclip method: Bend two paperclips into an L-shape with small hooks. Insert the hooks under opposite sides of the keycap, position both hooks near the stem, and pull upward evenly with both hands simultaneously. This works surprisingly well for small keys.

Flathead screwdriver: Only do this as a last resort. Wrap the head in tape to avoid scratching. Insert carefully under one edge, apply very gentle upward leverage, then move to the opposite side and repeat. Never pry from a single side all the way — that's how stems break.

Pro Tip

Keycap pullers typically come included with aftermarket keycap sets and many mechanical keyboards. Check your keyboard's original packaging — there may be one in there you've never used.

Laptop Keycaps: Handle With Care

Laptop keys use a scissor-switch mechanism — a small plastic X-shaped clip that snaps onto a retainer frame on the keyboard. These are not designed to be removed frequently and are easy to break.

If you must remove a laptop key: use a plastic spudger or a flat, rounded tool (no metal). Slide under the top edge of the keycap gently. The key releases from the top first — peel it back toward the hinge at the bottom rather than popping it straight off.

Warning — Laptop Keys

Once you remove a laptop scissor key, the retainer clip may not reseat firmly. Many laptop keys are "one remove" in practice. Unless you're replacing a visibly broken key, cleaning with compressed air without removing is usually safer.

How to Install Replacement Keycaps

Replacing a keycap is simpler than removing one. Check two things before you press it down:

  1. Stem hole alignment: Hold the keycap over the switch and confirm the plus-shaped hole aligns with the plus-shaped stem. Off-angle installation will cross-seat and feel crunchy.
  2. Legend orientation: Make sure the label faces forward. It sounds obvious, but upside-down keys are a more common mistake than you'd think — especially for blank modifier keycaps.

Once aligned, press down firmly and evenly from the center of the keycap. You'll feel (and hear) a small click as the stem clips in. Test the key — it should feel identical to its neighbors.

For stabilized keys (spacebar, shifts), press the center switch down first, then work the stabilizer wire ends into their housing slots from the sides.

Verify Every Key After Reinstalling

After putting keys back, run through the whole keyboard to check every key registers. If a key feels mushy or doesn't register, it's either not fully seated (press down harder) or you've knocked the switch stem.

Test All Keys on the Online Keyboard Tester →

Common Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)

Mistake: Angled pull

Pulling at an angle leverages one side of the stem. Fix: position the puller symmetrically and pull straight up.

Mistake: Not photographing first

You'll forget where the Print Screen key and various function key positions were. Always photograph first.

Mistake: Using claw puller on PBT keycaps

Plastic claw pullers can leave marks on high-gloss keycap surfaces. Wire pullers are always safer.

Mistake: Forcing a keycap that won't fit

Some aftermarket sets have slightly tighter stem holes. Wiggle gently rather than forcing — cross-threading the stem will require switch replacement.

Choosing Replacement Keycaps

Most aftermarket keycap sets are designed for MX-compatible switches (the standard cross/plus stem). Before buying, verify your keyboard uses MX-compatible or MX-clone switches. Topre boards, Alps switches, and low-profile switches each use their own keycap stems.

For material: PBT keycaps are durable, resist shine over time, and have a satisfying thock. ABS keycaps are smoother and more common on budget boards but get shiny (greasy-looking) with heavy use. If you're upgrading, PBT is almost always worth it.

Recommended: Wire Keycap Puller + Cleaning Kit

This kit includes both a wire puller and plastic puller, plus brush tools for cleaning between switches. Everything you need for keycap swaps in one package.

View Keyboard Cleaning Kit on Amazon →

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I remove keycaps without a puller?

Yes. Two bent paperclips work well on small keys. A flathead screwdriver wrapped in tape can work as a last resort. The key is applying even upward pressure around the stem rather than prying from a single point.

Will removing keycaps damage my keyboard?

No, if done correctly. Mechanical keyboard switches are designed for keycap removal — switch manufacturers spec thousands of keycap insertion cycles. The only real risk is snapping a switch stem by pulling at a sharp angle, which is why the straight-up technique matters.

Are all keycaps compatible with all keyboards?

No. Keycaps must match your switch stem type (MX, Topre, Alps, low-profile) and the physical size/layout of your board. Most aftermarket sets are labeled "MX-compatible." Check your keyboard's switch type before ordering.

How do I clean keycaps after removing them?

For light cleaning: wipe with a microfiber cloth slightly dampened with water or isopropyl alcohol. For deep cleaning: soak in a bowl of warm soapy water for 30 minutes, rinse thoroughly, and let air dry for several hours before reinstalling. Never reinstall damp keycaps — moisture inside a switch causes problems.

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